Dakar 2023, logbook – Learning the hard way in Ha'il

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The Dakar 2023 bivouac was set up for three days in the suburbs of Ha'il, in the north of the country. This name may seem incongruous, with its apostrophe splitting the commune in two, but for those who speak the Arabic language, Ha'il means "hail". I should have known that before packing my suitcase!

Due to its relatively high altitude for national standards (992 meters), the climate is not as hot as you might think. Moreover, in 2021, a downpour pushed the media present in the press room to take video of the phenomenon that was thought to be unexpected in Saudi Arabia.

Two years later, it was not a light rain that fell on the city of 600 inhabitants, but a flood! On the road from Al Ula to Ha'il, the precipitation is such that water flows from the smooth-surfaced rocky mountains and forms natural waterfalls tens of meters high.

We then witness an astonishing spectacle: the sides of the road are increasingly lined with cars and 4x4s. The locals simply stop to immortalize the phenomenon. Excuse the lack of evidence, but I preferred to stay dry. So you have to take my word for it.

Slush, slush… Julien Delfosse / DPPI

The spectacle can be seen from inside a 4×4 belonging to the Dakar organization. This took us to the outskirts of today's special, and you will be able to find the most impressive passages of the motorcycles and cars soon on our social networks. Anyway!

Arriving at our terminus, the good mood is dampened by a dilemma: should we go out and unfold the tent despite the risk of flooding? I am not exaggerating. The bivouac was transformed into a military camp. Members of the organization are rushing to dig channels to avoid stagnant water. Teams mark off their location with tarpaulins and try to divert the water as best they can. Even going to the little corner is an ordeal from which you come out soaked!

I'm definitely not going to pitch my tent in the slush. Fortunately, the media manager gave permission for journalists to spend the night inside the press room. At least if any news breaks, we'll already be in the office.

Bad weather didn't stop Audi from putting their hospitality in order. German rigor. © Eric Vargiolu / DPPI

The experience, if not the most usual, is quite amusing. Some finish their article or edit their photos while colleagues crawl into their sleeping bags, watching an episode of Friends on the phone. A Spanish reporter is the target of mockery from her compatriots because she takes forever to inflate her mattress, after spending 20 minutes lost in front of her suitcase, looking for who-knows-what.

AFP and DPPI photographers saw others. Their technique? Sneak under the table and block the sides with chairs so as not to be dazzled by the lights, which will stay on all night.

I opt for this method, but unfortunately the mattress is too wide to fit into the space provided for this purpose. Too bad, you have to fall back on the aisle between the tables, and close your eyes as tightly as possible! It's on rare occasions like this that fatigue becomes an ally. Sleep comes very quickly... I don't thank my colleagues for catching me from the moment!

King size bed and belongings close at hand! © Louis Boulay

In the end, the most annoying moment of that night was waking up. As soon as I opened my eyes, I saw people typing frantically on their computers, while I was still in my pajamas a few meters from them! A companion informing me that the shower is extremely cold at daybreak, I rely on waiting to wash myself once the sun has warmed up the water reserves in the containers. Good draw, the water has become hot!